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Suriname:
Oct. 6-17, 2008
Suriname is a land of mystery for many; most don’t even know it’s a country or where it is on a map. The Maroons, black slaves, escaped into the jungle to establish themselves again, safe from the oppression of their former masters. Jews, Hindus, Javanese, Chinese, and many others came to the Dutch colony in search of fortune. The result of all these different peoples living in this small country is a land rich in cuisine, language and custom. One man who came to Suriname in search of opportunity was my (Moreno’s) uncle Luigi. He left Vancouver in the early 90’s to work on a project to quarry rare marble and granite from the jungles of the interior. Several years later he was on a hospital bed back in Canada, near death. He had fallen ill with a parasite and it almost took his life. We arrived in Suriname able to locate it on a map, but my uncle’s experience here 15 years ago left me unsure of what to really expect from this place.
The sign on the East bank of the Corantijn River read “Welcome in the Republic of Suriname”. That was kind of how things went there. Everyone seemed to speak enough English and everyone in Suriname is welcoming, almost to a fault. Customs officers processed us into the country and had a glance at the van. After confirming we had valid insurance and an international driver’s license, we were pointed the way to go. This was the first country where we did not receive a vehicle permission or temporary importation permit. They just seemed happy to have us and trusting that we’d leave with our van. The road east towards the capital of Paramaribo (Parbo) started out as hard packed orange dirt, but that gave way to paving stones. It was strange to see a highway made up entirely of pavers for many kilometers; it was new and nice to drive on though.
Months ago we had made arrangements, on couchsurfing.com, to stay at Gyan and Seeta’s house in Parbo. Seeta is in India to study now, but when we arrived her husband Gyan was quick to take us out for roti. This wouldn’t the only time we’d experience Surinamese hospitality. We camped that night at Gyan’s parents. The next day Gyan made arrangements for us to rent a house not far from the historic city center. That afternoon we moved in. The house was great, fast, free internet connection, a nice kitchen, safe parking for the Westy and an airy patio to sit on. We spent the next few days in town checking out the produce and fish markets and the strange Maroon market filled with animal skulls, feathers and traditional remedies for ailments. Ashley cooked up feast after feast using the freshest ingredients from the market in our big kitchen. Another online contact of ours, Geoff and Monique, put us in touch with some more wonderful people. Monique’s brother Steve owns the local newspaper the de Ware Tijd. We met with Steve, photographer Roy and a reporter that day. Roy had us driving on the president’s lawn for a photo, the guards were not impressed. The next morning our faces were on the front page. That night we had an excellent meal with Steve, his lovely wife Cathy and friends Carla and Roy at Allen’s incredible Thai restaurant The Garden of Eden. Between the great food and the great company, we had a very memorable night.
Tragedy struck when the power went out and our computer wouldn’t start up again. We had just set the computer up and planned to back up all our photos when it died. Gyan made it a personal mission to get us some help at a local computer shop. After almost a week without our machine and some tense moments, all our photos from the last six months were recovered and the computer rebooted. We spent the week exploring Parbo. Steve arranged for the three of us to visit the Neve Shalom Synagogue. It is almost 200 years old and the only operational Synagogue in Suriname. Jews from Portugal, Holland and Italy were some of the first to come to Suriname; they settled in 1639 and established many plantations in the savannah. Jews have a very long history in the Americas; Christopher Columbus’ doctor, navigator and translator were all Jewish. As well the voyages of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria were financed by the Jewish ancestors of our guide at the Neve Shalom. What’s nice is a Mosque stands peacefully right next to the Synagogue.
While in Suriname Gyan spent a lot of time with us, showing us the Javanese market, drinking beer and telling stories on the Waterkant and taking us to Seeta’s parent’s house to celebrate her sister’s birthday. Steve, Cathy, Carla and Roy wear equally warm and generous. It’s nice to leave Suriname feeling like we have made friends. Suriname has been a wonderful experience for us, only made better by the superb people who have welcomed us here.
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